McLaren Vale to Port Augusta

The rain continued so we drove to a Kathmandu shop to add to our winter wardrobes for the cold outback nights. It was still raining the next day so we defrosted the caravan fridge! Fortunately it stopped raining by lunchtime and we met up with an old friend who recently moved back to Adelaide. We ate in the restaurant at the Coriole Vineyards in McLaren Vale. The food was excellent especially the Belgian chocolate bombe which was served as an intact sphere of chocolate which collapsed when a hot chocolate sauce was poured over it.

We packed up in the afternoon while it was dry and headed off to Port Augusta in the morning. At the information office we learned that all roads to and around Lake Eyre are closed due to the rain, but ironically the water level in the lakes is falling because no more flood waters are flowing from Queensland. So we are activating Plan B and turning left to cross the Nullarbor. We will stay here two nights so that we can explore Port Augusta.

Our first discovery has been a wonderful old building that operates as a hotel/motel, function centre and restaurant. The restaurant is surprisingly large and the menu offers "Australian" meals such as steaks and hamburgers, or Indian food. On the recommendation of our waitress we opted for Indian and it was all so delicious we will probably go back tomorrow night. There were about 50 people eating in the restaurant which shows how popular it is. The Standpipe Motel is a sandstone building that was originally built in 1883 as a watering hole for teamsters and Afghan cameleers, but it ceased trading as a hotel in 1901 after the demise of the camel and bullock trains . For years it was used as a private residence, flats and a nursing home before it was renovated and the new accommodation suites were built.

Port Augusta is at the head of Spencer Gulf and can have tides varying by up to 4.5m. The "beaches" are nothing like east coast beaches as the sand is course and reddish in colour. The local council has published one of the most informative tourist booklets I have ever read so we have a good guide to the places of interest in and around the town. I am particularly looking forward to seeing the Australian Arid Lands Botanic Garden.